Saturday, January 19, 2019

Eating conch

“We know that the problem with conch poisoning is not the conch,” explained Dr. Sands to the paper. “It is the water that the conch resides in and is stored in. We know that if you rinse off the conch with copious amounts of clean, fresh water, that you can virtually, if not completely, eliminate the risk of conch poisoning… from vibrio.”

Many vendors, however, operate under the mistaken belief that it is better to store and prepare conch in salt water… which only exacerbates the problem. Sands added that it’s important that visitors to the island — specifically cruisers — know not only about the possible health hazard but the best ways to avoid it. Meanwhile, his office is trying to figure out the best way to deal with the situation. He advised that visitors not purchase conch from vendors who do not have access to fresh tap or distilled water, as they are likely washing the conch in seawater.
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you’ll find it served several ways: stewed; “cracked” (battered and fried); curried; dusted with seasoned flour to make crispy fritters; or as the featured ingredient in creamy chowder. But true conch aficionados know to order it the traditional island way: as conch salad.

Conch salad is a ceviche-type preparation, made with raw conch meat and diced veggies (including some traditional salad ingredients, such as onions, tomatoes and sweet peppers) tossed together in tangy lime juice. 

The colorful waterfront restaurants at Arawak Cay (aka The Fish Fry) serve up every conceivable iteration of conch. But I’m partial to Oh Andros, where the always-tender never-chewy conch salad (and a frosty Kalik) hits the spot.


Potter’s Cay, Nassau
If you’ve already sampled Arawak Cay, try the fare from the string of vendors underneath the eastern bridge between Nassau and Paradise Island, where the city’s taxi drivers get their lunchtime fix.


Eat Like a Local in the Bahamas

Bahamian woman making traditional conch saladAlexander Shalamov/Dreamstime
Bahamian woman making traditional conch salad

Pricey resort food? No thanks! Here's how to track down Nassau's most authentic food trucks, bakeries, and even grocery stores that dish out mouth-watering local fare.

Like other Caribbean islands that rely heavily on tourism and food imports, the Bahamas are not a cheap destination. Whether you’re on a cruise, at a resort, or even renting with Airbnb, restaurants, activities, taxis, and souvenirs add up fast. Sure, you can skip the latter, bring your own snorkeling gear, and stick to the $1.25-a-ride local jitneys to get around, but the restaurants? Expect to pay more than $25 a plate for something as mundane as shrimp over linguine—and that’s at a casual sports bar outside Nassau.
Of course, where there’s a will, there’s a way to eat cheap in the Bahamas, and you can bet that it involves local food. Here are some tips for sniffing it out in and around the pricey cruise capital of Nassau, on New Providence Island.

Track Down the Parking-Lot Vans

On weekdays, lunch vans will often park in beach lots or near souvenir shopping hubs to provide lunch for local vendors—and any savvy tourists in the vicinity. What’s a lunch van, exactly? Just what it sounds like: a car or van with a hatchback full of home-cooked Bahamian food, from curry chicken to oxtails or pork chop, depending on the day. A heaping plate with two sides—rice and peas, potato salad, coleslaw, steamed vegetables, the islands’ trademark “slice” of mac-and-cheese—will run you about $6. They are not always easy to find, as signage might not be present, so ask around. We found one called Shan’s in the lot behind the massive Mélia resort in Cable Beach, a stone’s throw from the area’s famed Daiquiri Shack. (Incidentally, the daiquiris also cost $6 apiece, if you’d rather drink your lunch!) 

Visit the “Other” Fish Fry

To be clear, there is only one Fish Fry on New Providence—that colorful strip of fish and conch shacks on Arawak Cay—and it’s definitely worth a visit. But there’s no denying the more laid-back, local flavor of Potter’s Cay, which stretches underneath the bridge to Paradise Island. The “dock,” as it’s called, is lined with eateries and bars, likewise rainbow-hued, but a bit more ramshackle than on Arawak; produce stands and a fish market add to the local vibe. (Also, you’re under a giant bridge, so it feels kind of gritty and secret, despite the turquoise-water views.) Most of these places specialize in unmissable made-to-order conch salad ($12) and cheap Kalik beers, but several offer other Bahamian dishes, like chicken souse and stew conch. To get there, hop on a No. 1 jitney from downtown Nassau—and while some eateries do open for lunch, Potter’s Cay really gets going after 4pm.

Hit Up the Bakeries

Thanks to a handful of European pastry chefs who have landed in resort kitchens over the years, the Nassau area has a great little bakery scene. At both the Original Swiss Sweet Shop (locations in Cable Beach and downtown Nassau) and the Swiss Pastry Shop (Cable Beach), you’ll find some tasty and inexpensive breakfast and lunch items—Jamaican-style patties (don’t miss the conch patties; $3.75 apiece), dense johnny cakes with cheese, quiches—nestled among the cakes, custards, tarts, and Bahamian sweets. Be sure to pick up a traditional guava duff for dessert; you’ll pay a bit less here ($5) than in most restaurants.
Along the No. 10 jitney route, west of Nassau between Cable Beach and Love Beach, there are a couple of worthwhile spots, including the always-hoppin’ Dino’s—home of some of the island’s best conch salads, which start at $10 a pop but can easily fill you for lunch or dinner. Cheaper than conch are the meat-and-starch meals you’ll find from food trucks like Evelyn’s, which parks daily at the very end of Potter’s Cay—try the steamed ribs or turkey for lunch ($6), or some grits and sardines for breakfast—and the roadside vendors behind Montagu beach, east of downtown.
But some of them, like the Quality Supermarkets chain, offer a prepared-foods section where you can pick up items like rotisserie chicken, ribs, and Bahamian-style mac-and-cheese for under $10. Add a six-pack of Kalik 
Freddy van Brugal, this hopping restaurant masters the kind of fusion food that’s hard to come by in the states. Try the coconut curry conch chowder with a slice of baguette slathered in homemade parsley sauce 

Twin Brothers at Arawak Cay Fish Fry

At Twin Brothers, conch salad is prepared at the delight of onlookers, fresh cracked lobster and conch is served piping hot and plantains are fried to perfection.
Where: There are many spots for a great, fresh, while-you-wait conch salad in this town (and on these islands), but we love the laid-back, local flavor of Potter’s Cay, which stretches underneath the bridge to Paradise Island (map). The “dock,” as it’s called, is lined with ramshackle eateries and bars, produce stands, and a fish market; there’s a gritty, secret feel here, and turquoise-water views. The stand we recommend in particular is called Corner Pocket, all the way down on the left (west) side. Look for the billiards sign.
Good to know: To get to Potter’s Cay, hop on a No. 1 jitney heading east from downtown Nassau; it’s a short ride. Also, while some eateries (like this one) open for lunch, as a whole the place really gets going after 4pm.
When: Tues-Sun, 10am-till
Order: The conch salad is $12, well worth it for the care and quality of ingredients. The friendly woman who expertly made our salad, Nicole, chops the conch finely so that it’s not even chewy (as conch tends to be); the other ingredients are chopped fresh to order as well, so put your patient hat on. We promise, it will be worth your time. Order a cold Kalik beer and enjoy the turquoise water views behind the stand—one nice thing about Corner Pocket is that since it’s all the way down the pier, it may not be as crowded as some other stands. Also, it’s very near the excellent Evelyn’s Kitchen food truck and its down-home fare (see also peas and rice, steamed meats). Bonus: Corner Pocket’s full menu includes traditional items like chicken or pig feet souse at breakfast and daily specials, from curried mutton to steam conch to oxtail, throughout the week for lunch.
Alternatively: There’s always the iconic “Fish Fry” (map) on Arawak Cay—that colorful strip of fish and conch shacks beloved by tourists and locals alike, where freshly made conch salads are likewise very common. We also love Dino’s Gourmet Conch Salad (42-CONCH/ 242-677-7798; West Bay St., Gambier, approx. map)—which claims to have invented the popular spinoff known as “tropical conch salad,” adding pineapple, apple, and mango to the mix—just east of pretty Love Beach in West New Providence. You’ll need to travel for that one, in a car/cab or via the No. 10 jitney—just tell the driver where you’re going (look for the bright-pink shack!) and be sure the jitneys are still running back the other way.
Where to find some of the best Conch Fritters in Nassau:

Conch Fritters at Twin Brothers

The absolute best conch fritters in the country are served at Twin Brothers restaurant on Potter’s Cay Dock. Presumably the same recipe is used at all six of the Twin Brothers franchise locations, but I only vouch for the fried golden balls of battered conchie goodness at the Potter’s Cay Dock franchise. 

Dino’s Gourmet Conch Salad

Just be thankful this list isn’t for fast food, because I would have to disqualify Dino’s Gourmet Conch Salad. But as far as the best conch salad goes, this roadside stand is a trendsetter. Located a short distance from the airport, along the Western coast, Dino’s has both traditional and new age recipe options on the menu.  

Grilled Conch at Drifters

Tenderized whole conch is wrapped in foil, seasoned with onions, tomatoes, sweet peppers, plantains and spices, and placed on the grill. Natural juices spring from the mixture and infuse the conch with flavor. When the foil bundle is opened at your dinner table, that means it is time to take your Johnny Cake (Bahamian sweet bread) and dig in. Head to Drifters at Arawak Cay to partake in this conch eating ritual. 


Cracked Conch at King Restaurant and Bar
King’s is one of the smallest and most rowdy shacks at Arawak Cay with the absolute best cracked conch. Conch is most commonly consumed by Bahamians in this way: seasoned, battered, and deep fried. What makes a good cracked conch? The conch must be tender, the batter crispy, and the mixture must have the perfect balance of lime and salt. 

Conch Chowder at Naughty Johnny’s

Naughty Johnny’s is not afraid to experiment when it comes to Bahamian food. Their menu features traditional options like cracked conch and fusion creations like Cajun Conch Strips. When it comes to conch chowder, a brothy stew of vegetables and minced conch, this Bahamian bistro sticks closely to grandma’s recipe

Bahamian Cookin' Restaurant & Bar

Here are four of our most popular conch dishes:
Conch Salad
Prepared fresh with chopped tomatoes, onions, green peppers, and lime and lemon juice, conch salad is an island favorite. This salad is great to enjoy as a light (but still filling) lunch before heading to the beach for the afternoon.
Conch Fritters
The best appetizer around town! These bite-sized balls are made with fresh conch that is mixed with finely diced peppers and onions, battered with flour, and then deep-fried. Conch fritters usually come with a side of hot sauce.
Cracked Conch
Cracked conch is deep-fried conch served with fries (and sometimes rice), and a spicy dipping sauce. Although it looks a bit like deep-fried calamari, cracked conch has a lot more flavor—and is the perfect afternoon snack to go with a local Sands beer.
Cracked Conch Sandwich
Great for lunch or dinner! A cracked conch sandwich is made from deep-fried conch, layered with lettuce, onions, and spicy mayo. Pair an ice-cold Kalik (local Bahamain beer) with your sandwich, and that’s a meal made in paradise.
Unfortunately, one of the most popular dishes in the Bahamas is conch salad, which involves the use of raw conch.  He advised that visitors not purchase conch from vendors who do not have access to fresh tap or distilled water, as they are likely washing the conch in seawater.

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