The
Passetto di Borgo, or simply
Passetto, is an elevated passage that links the
Vatican City with the
Castel Sant'Angelo. It is an approximately 800 metres (2,600 ft) long corridor, located in the
rione of
Borgo. It was erected in 1277 by
Pope Nicholas III, but parts of the wall were built by
Totila during the
Gothic War. On two occasions it served as an escape route for
Popes in danger.
But you haven’t explored
Castello Segreto – a secret part of Castel Sant’Angelo—and now’s your chance, but just until November 20th of this year.
Remember the movie Angels and Demons? Dan Brown’s protagonist Robert Langdon, played by Tom Hanks, ran through this area. As you walk through the Passetto di Borgo, imagine the many pontiffs who have used this 800-meter tunnel that connects the castle with the Vatican. This “safe passage, “allowing popes to escape from the Vatican to the castle, was ordered either by Pope Nicholas III (who reigned between 1277-80) or by the Anti-Pope John XXIII (not to be confused with Pope John XXII) who was in power during the Western Schism (1410–1415).
While historians argue about which Pope began the passage, they agree that Pope Alexander VI finished the wall in 1492—and just in the nick of time. He used it to flee the invading French two years later. The most recent papal escape was in 1527, when Clement VII evaded the 20,000 mutinous troops of Charles V. Said troops went on to murder most of the Swiss Guard on the steps of St. Peter’s Basilica.
You can also imagine what life was like for the people imprisoned in small cells used from the Renaissance right up until the 19th century. On a more mundane note, the Stufetto di Clement VI will show you what a Pope’s private restroom would have looked like in the 1500s. Not everyone’s toilet chamber is decorated with frescoes by Raphael!
However, the secret section of the castle goes back centuries more—it was originally built as a residence for Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd Century AD, and became his mausoleum as well. That early construction date may be part of the reason for the restricted size of the rooms and the tunnel, too; as a result, each tour of the “Secret Castle” is limited to 15 people. Reservations and pre-ordered tickets are essential! — Bethanne Patrick
Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo and Castello SegrettoLungotevere Castello, 50
(39) 06 32810 for reservations and tickets
The museum proper is open daily except on Christmas and New Year’s Day from 9:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
Daily Castello Segreto tours: four per day, two in Italian at 11:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m., two in English at noon and 4:00 p.m.
Price: 10€ for complete castle tour, 5€ for “secret” rooms only
